Back to Spain? Again?

Spain, Spain, Spain, you’ve done it again.  I’ve barely unpacked my bags and gotten temporarily situated here in the US and I’m already dreaming of cobblestone roads in the old towns, Spanish small talk with locals, lounges on patios for a café con hielo (coffee with ice), and long talks with my amigas (girl friends) over canas (small beers) and tapas (small snack you get with beer)...  But the thing is, I also miss the crappy stuff that we all complain about, like how Spanish people are notoriously late, or how the men stare relentlessly, or how they seem to be completely oblivious of other people walking at a different pace along the same side walk.  They may have had me grumbling from time to time, but it’s a part of the great Spanish culture I adore.

What I’m discovering through these moments of return and reflection is that sometimes plans don’t work out being clean and pretty and nicely packaged, but they always follow some kind of more destined path.  Just days ago I was organizing a plan to move to Denver and force upon myself a new life that would surely be fun and pleasant.  But I couldn’t ignore an off feeling about the plan and even my close friends could see it.  Now, as if a greater force is trying to drill a message into my brain, my closest contact in Denver, once encouraging me to move west, has revealed that she will now be departing soon after my arrival.  Beyond this discovery, other facets of the plan have been falling like a house of cards and I can do nothing more than believe that this is not meant to be.  I have learned the hard way many times that when you go against your instincts and these types of glaring signs, the results are can be disastrous.   Case in point: my hilariously bad trip to Amsterdam last June, but that’s a whole different story…

So here’s the thing that I am openly pondering here in this entry:  When do you ever hear advice like: Ignore your instincts; Take the road more traveled; Lead with your doubts and fears?  I wager to say not often and that if someone is giving you this advice, run.  My instincts are screaming to me that I need to go back to Spain, and this time for a while. For the first time, maybe ever, I am longing for some stability, but I want it in Spain.  I want to unpack my bags and stay for a while.  This visa situation is something I’ve conceded to without further consideration.  But then, when I think that other Americans have found a way to make a life work in Europe, and not just by teaching English or getting married to a European (not completely out of the question, but I mean, come on), I have to believe that if I fight for it, if I turn every stone and kick open every door that’s cracked open, I will somehow make this dream come true. 

It’s a remarkable sensation when you decide unequivocally that you believe something is right and when you want something with every bit of certainty you can muster.  And the final piece that has quieted the last of my doubts is the blessings and encouragement of every member of my family and my loving friends that reside all over the world.  It’s time to make this dream become reality, changing plan A from a fair compromise to a reach for my brass ring.  This may all be a pipe dream and I could be living in la-la land, but after almost three years with the same voice getting louder and louder, telling me to keep traveling and get my ass back to Europe, I gotta believe this is real and this is what needs to be done.  My daily quote today says it the best and we can all learn from it: 

“Only as high as I reach can I grow, only as far as I seek can I go, only as deep as I look can I see, only as much as I dream can I be.” –Karen Raven.  

Wanna Be Part of the 1% Club?

The next Scoop is up!  Take a walk on the moon with David:  Thespainscoop.com

A North Carolina Buddhist Experience

Raleigh can easily be classified as a conservative, old fashioned capital city, tucked away in the depths of the “Bible Belt”.  I tend to agree from time to time based on my many experiences.  However, this weekend I was exposed to a new side of Raleigh that left me wondering, "what other hidden nooks am I yet to discover here and have I been too quick to judge?"

Churches are very much a part of the culture in Raleigh

Sunday morning anywhere in North Carolina, you will find packed churches on virtually every street corner.  But this Sunday morning, I attended a different brand of worship at a Buddhist center downtown.  My friend here was assigned to perform a cultural study and part of that assignment was to join this congregation, recording her impressions and experience.  I went with her out of pure curiosity and as a final effort to uncover just the smallest inkling of diversity in this conventional, seemingly uniform community. 

Outside of Buddhist Temple, The Kadampa Center

What I expected: a very traditional and serious vibe with many people of Indian and Asian decent joining in silence and following strict protocol.  But just entering the parking lot, I saw scores of people dressed in jeans and flip flops, of all different demographics and backgrounds, casually strolling into the modern building in downtown Raleigh.   Upon entering, there were snacks and coffee, kids playing, adults chatting; all very typical “Raleigh” people. 

In the lobby for snacks

We removed our shoes and found a seat in one of the rapidly filling pews.  For the next hour, a monk with a tickle in his throat and an infectious laugh lead us through a very basic, happy sermon, peppered with breathing activities and quiet meditation.  Parts were very reminiscent of my Ashtanga yoga experience in Lanzarote.  There was no preaching or moments where I felt out of place or uncomfortable; just a simple reminder to keep your thoughts positive and be more present in our lives. 

Happy Monk who leads Sunday morning session

A part of me felt twinges of guilt for prejudging the people of Raleigh, southerners, even Americans, for being painfully out of touch and close-minded.  This experience for me served as a pleasant reminder that even here, in a state that recently was caught with egg on its face on a world scale due to passing terribly narrow minded legislation, there are plenty of people who don’t fit that mold.  (Side note for those of you from around the world that caught the headlines about North Carolina’s gay marriage ban:  Many of the people who voted for this were not residents of the bigger cities like Raleigh and Charlotte.  From all the individuals I spoke to since returning back to the state, they find it to be just as perplexing as I do and I’ve been hard pressed to find someone who voted for it to go through.  I also have no intention to offend anyone by making this opinionated observation.) 

A State Divided

 

Sneak Peak Scoop: Untapped Secrets of Lanzarote

The geographic secrets of this fascinating island were revealed to me by chance as a wacky Scott and I crossed paths and he agreed to take me on adventures I will not soon forget.  Here's an account of one excursion that truly transported me to another planet within the island. 

With sweaty palms and fingernails digging into the roll bar of Anibal, I keep my eyes sharply fixed ahead at the rocky off-road path.  As we drive through the middle of the desert I am shouting “hole!” to diligently fulfill my arbitrary task of warning our driver of giant gaps in the “road” as I hang over the top of his beloved four wheel beast.  We fly through the open expanse of sand and rocks, over small lava fields, and down steep overhangs.

We are on a quest to find what David, our bold adventure tour guide, has in store for us in what he calls the peculiar “one percent club”.   Originally from the Highlands of Scotland, this adventure junkie discovered the island of Lanzarote in the Canary Islands five years ago.  Since then, he has made the mysterious natural oasis of volcanoes, beaches, deserts, and caves his personal playground to be shared with those who trust him enough to hit the trails in his rugged open top Jeep he calls “Anibal”. .

On this installment of Adventure Holidays Lanzarote, we are making our way through this Canary Island’s uninhabited desert valley to crawl beneath the craggy, crusty land and into one of the massive lava tubes that was carved out by hot magma during the explosive creation of this volcanic island.   We’ve just spent the past hour discovering fascinating wonders of the volcanic landscape above ground, hiking inside the massive crater of a hollowed mountain, then scaling the side of it in order to peer over its crumbling ledge into the vacant center.  We craned our heads around, 360 degrees, gripping the sturdy rocks around us to take in the breathtaking panoramic view that resembles what you would envision of life on the moon.  Now, after a bumpy off-road expedition to a seemingly desolate spot, we arrive at a small, peculiar scar sliced out of the ground, inviting us to crawl below the superficial layer of earth to see what secrets the island holds underneath the surface. 

We switch on our headlamps and begin to crawl down into the dark unknown.  As we cautiously shuffle through the dark, rocky twists and turns of this massive lava tunnel, climbing over the pieces of the fallen rubble and ducking under the dangling mineral deposits, I feel like a kid again, exploring wondrous untapped hideaways.  We finally emerge into the sunlight after a long voyage through one of Lanzarote’s underground secrets with an enlightened perspective on how these spectacularly mystifying islands came to be.

What is truly fantastic about Lanzarote and David’s mission for his guests is that there are countless surprises yet to be experienced by the vast majority of inhabitants and visitors all over this tiny, beautiful landmass.  Beyond lava tubes and volcano hikes, tiny unmarked seaside villages, caves tucked away into cliff sides, beautiful hidden beaches, and the most spectacular outlook spots are all waiting to be revealed to those fortunate few that dare to discover them. 

You can find David’s tours at http://www.facebook.com/adventureholidays.lanzarote, or shoot him an email at lanza888@yahoo.com.  

Final Days of Spain

After several weeks of blog neglect, I feel utterly compelled to share the frenzy of the past month now that I’ve at last been afforded a moment for reflection and recollection.

My departure from Lanzarote was tearful and weighed heavily on my heart as I peeled myself away from the xenful island life that I grew to adore and that has effectively become a part of me.  My final day, I knew no better place to say goodbye than by taking Smurf for a drive down my favorite open road to those precious cliffs, and strolling along Famara Beach to a hidden spot between the dunes.  The beach was quiet, with clouds rolling in overhead and gusts of wind twirling around my hair and skirt.  I took this personal moment to say farewell and vow to return sooner than later.  Somehow in just a short span of time, this mysterious place managed to shake me to my core and re-center me in mind, body, and soul.

 When I at last departed, the skies had cleared and I gazed out of the airplane window at the entire island, now appearing curiously tiny.  I said goodbye to each village, watching my favorite spots pass below me, keeping my eyes locked on the land until it was at last out of site.  And as the sun sat brilliantly into the horizon over the sea, I took a deep breath and choked back my tears, repeatedly thanking this place for all it has given me. 

When I landed back in Madrid, hysteria of the big city metro on a Saturday night smacked me in the face.  I reemerged into the noise and hustle, trying hard to hold on to my inner calmness as people dashed past me and the loud noises filled my ears.  For the two days I spent here in limbo, I managed to keep out the madness, becoming starkly aware that life in a big city is definitely not conducive of relaxation or inner peace.  I quickly headed north for another breed of adventure in the Basque Country of Spain.  My adventures through San Sebastian, the tiny neighboring coastal towns, and a happy return to Pamplona are best if recounted independently in another post. 

Again refreshed from a week of more Spanish discoveries, I returned to Madrid for one more week in this incredible country I proclaim as my second home.  I filled my days reconnecting with those individuals that I hold near and dear, returning to those spots I regulared once upon a time around the capital’s center, and maintaining sanity as I dealt with life back in a metropolitan environment.  When Monday arrived, as much as I wanted to make a last minute attempt to abandon my flight and latch on to my life as a Spaniard, I reluctantly departed and made the lengthy voyage back to my inevitable base of Raleigh, North Carolina. 

This return is different, being much more brief and sandwiching a state side adventure to NYC, visitting my bro who is experiencing a whole different type of adventure. Then, in less than a month, I’ll be hitting the road, literally, and trying my hand at life back in the states, making Denver, CO “home”.  But I can’t help this overwhelming feeling from rising up inside of me and feeding a burning desire to be back in Spain sooner than later.  I found a home for myself in there it leaves me feeling lost and unfulfilled to be separate from this place.  It’s more than just a location; it’s a lifestyle, a feeling, an energy, that draws me in unyieldingly.  Still, I’m a firm believer that everything happens for a reason and that if Spain truly is my destined home, I will figure out a way to settle my roots abroad, happily and legally.  Life has a funny way of working things out, so I’m going to roll with the punches, give Colorado a chance to shine, but keep Spain close to my heart, always.  

Head for the Hills!

Next Scoop is out:  A pleasent day trip in Gran Ca to Arucus includes all you can drink rum and dodging peacocks

Head for the Hills: Gran Canaria Island

Natural Beauty

Cruising down the zigzagging motorway from my tiny village of Tao to the western edge of Lanzarote for my usual biweekly yoga class, I at last allowed my hectic stream of thought melt away out of my consciousness.  As I wound my way down the LZ-401, I casually peered up into the distance, as I always do on this stretch of road.  But this time my eyes were captivated.  The late spring sunshine was feeding the sky with one last pop of brightness and as I gazed to the expansive distance, over the blank desert and tiny pueblos sprinkled about the sporadic rolling hills, I could see so perfectly the monumental Famara cliffs, towering over the town for which I was heading, and the quiet neighboring island of La Graciosa.  I make this same drive on several occasions each week, but there was something uniquely stunning that kept my eyes unyieldingly locked on the view. 

The sun appeared to be grabbing every individual crevice of the craggy precipice.  The jagged edges of the rock face with its intricate abrasive contours gently softened into a smooth rolling valley as it crept away from the islands edge, sneaking inland.  The ridges along the façade looked as though they were giant reaching fingers, outstretched to the earth’s floor, as the sun created shadows between each bend.  I watched the clouds slowly move above the sharp crown, kissing its curves to create that iconic image for which this landmark is known; the dramatic slope sliced out of the lid, rising to the heavens once more before tapering off into the ocean.  The scene presented the illusion that the entire planet was chiseled out of this one piece of remaining stone.  

As I entered my destination I pondered how a rock could have so much inspirational power. How could this colossal stone barricade create a profound emotional response, keeping me captured by its beauty and positively entranced?  But as I drove here quietly with not a sound but the idle rumble of my engine, eyes fixed on this incredible vista, I was connecting deeply with something simple yet profound.

I took one final glance at the now proximal vista until finally entering into my place of temporary sanction, the old community center of Famara, to partake in a fulfilling hour and a half of meditation and yoga.  After the time was completed, this particular session being an even more tranquil and centering experience than usual, I stepped out into the parking lot with a grin of contentment, slowly floating to my vehicle, deeply exhaling the last breaths of my previously busy day, now transformed into a mellow timeless existence.  As I began to depart, I recalled my tremendous drive down into town and took note of the now rapidly fading daylight, transforming into a clear starry night.

With my prized Famara cliffs still holding their bold pose in the night sky to the north, I turned my gaze to the south where a hint of sunlight was still peaking through the dark shadows of the rolling volcanic hills.  Only black outlines remained of the colorful mars-like mountain ridges.  It was now not the incredible presence of the rock formations that were being highlighted, but the breathtaking colors of the southern sky.  Rich deep blues hovered over head, filled with puffy dark clouds, kissed with a luminous magenta hue, and tiny twinkling pinholes poked out of the mystifying darkness.  As I scanned the sky toward the horizon, as the atmosphere met the black rolling hilltops it subtly morphed into a delicate purple hint before sinking into a feminine pink and at last revealing a tiny shimmer of white sunlight on the cusp of disappearing beyond the horizon line. 

I was once again captivated by the sheer natural magnificence that could never possibly be matched by any man made attempt.  This inconceivable view that I was resting my eyes upon took a hold of me, like a feeling of falling deeply in love all at once.  Never in my life have I felt so clear and pure, so naturally and fantastically centered.  This perfect melody of life in this one poignant moment stirred an emotional frenzy within me as I simultaneously came to the stark realization that this will need to be branded into my memory because my time here on this island is rapidly drawing to a close.  But I feel an incredible gratitude and there is no imaginable way to predict what it will feel like to be peeled away from such a peaceful existence and thrusted back into a concrete jungle filled with cars and people, noises and lights. At least I have time moment, this simply perfect moment, to look back on and deeply appreciate.  Thank you Famara cliffs and setting sun and peaceful Lanzarote.  Thank you for being so naturally and purely exquisite.

Turning the Page

Today I noticed that my suitcase has managed to collect a thin layer of dust.  How proud I am that I've managed to remain stationary for over a month, with an artificial sensation that I am home.  Yet the reason I made this trivial observation was because I happened to be fetching my passport from the outer pocket in order to book the next round of flights.  Soon the sixty days allocated to living in Lanzarote will come to a close, and I'll be up above the clouds again, en route to the next batch of destinations, spending the remainder of Spring bouncing from one place to the next, before ultimately landing in a yet to be determined "home".

The days have raced by, as they tend to do when each moment is relentlessly action packed.  Now, as the holiday weekend comes to a close and I recover from several days of over stimulation and socialization, it has dawned on me that this experience is winding down to a close just as rapidly as it began.  With less than three weeks remaining on this island (a chunk of that time being reserved for visiting friends in the upcoming weekends), the hard reality is sinking in that a copious amount of goodbyes await me in the near future, along with a plethora of staggering life changes that will inevitably shake my foundation yet again.  This is the life of perpetual travel.

Another stark observation I made today is that it is Easter Sunday, a day reserved for togetherness, family, rest, and reflection.  Instead of being in Raleigh with my own kin, I am several thousand miles away, purchasing more flights for solo adventures.  It has been a looming awareness for some time now, but the lure of international galavanting and exploration has up until this point, trumped the comfort of settlement- until now.  As these months pass, even as I live out another span of enthralling days, I have been gradually grasping that the time has come to end this chapter.  This chapter that is full of tales of new places, people, and experiences has reached a beautiful peak, but I am prepared to step into a completely different undertaking.

The other day I noticed that when I return back to the US in May, I will have spent exactly the same amount of time out of my past career as I spent in it; just shy of two and a half years for each.  On the same token, like my peers from the class of 07', I am approaching the five year anniversary of graduating university and beginning my professional life.  What a perfectly suitable time to embark on something brilliantly fresh. What an opportunity to collect all that I have gained from the journey thus far and apply it toward something bigger than myself, as I turn the page to the next chapter.

What the Surf?

Gulps of ocean are filling my mouth and getting trapped in my throat; my body is being thrashed continuously by the white water; sun screen is seeping into my burning, squinted eyes; masses of jelly fish float about and taunt me… My second lesson out on the sea to make a valiant effort to capture this peacefulness and oneness with nature that surfing seems to bring to people.  For me, it’s work.  Hard work, determination, and thinking, thinking, thinking. 

My Aussi instructor is shouting to me in frustration of my inability to follow certain seemingly simple tasks and the other girls appear to be dancing on the boards, no problem.  My arms ache from relentless paddling to only be flipped over by a wave I’m on the wrong side of and all I can think about is heading for dry land.  Finally, as I reach the green water beyond the break, I take a minute to compose and rest my throbbing limbs.  I see the next wave coming over my shoulder and our nearby trainer hollers at me to take position.  Like a drill sergeant, I begin to repeat the mantra in my mind:  watch the wave; paddle, paddle, paddle; toe on the board; 1, 2 down, 3, 4 come up!   And finally, like an invisible hand lifting me up, I pushed my body off the board, planted my feet, and at last feel the wave pulling me and the board all the way to shore.  

This is a silly story to an actual surfer who shimmies and swerves for days in a heavy pile of rolling waves.  But to a beginner it is no walk in the park.  It’s a humbling experience to be tossed and toppled, choking on water going down your windpipe, getting tangled in the sea weed along the shoreline, and spending 90% of the time using your upper body strength to reach the idea spot.  And once the opportunity finally arrives to take on a wave and attempt a ride, it’s another set of instructions to tell your body to do as the mind says.  The sport of surfing is not for the faint of heart and as I muster through my next day of tackling the sea, I feel a great deal of respect to those skilled individuals that make it look so damn easy.  

Oceana Posting

Thank you to Oceana for bringing attention to dangers off the shore of Lanzarote and publishing my take on the issue:

Outrage Against Drilling in Canary Islands- Oceana: The Beacon, April 2, 2012

“No a las Petroleras!” Says Lanzarote

Along with many other nations around the world, Spain has been desperately searching for solutions to relieve the increasing financial woes the country is facing.  With significant portion of its oil supply being imported and oil prices skyrocketing, attention to cuttingdown on this lofty expense has turned toward a tempting opportunity to drill for oil off shore in their own territory.  The large Spanish petrol firm, REPSOL, has declared an interest in surveying underwater land dangerously close to the Spanish Canary Islands of Lanzarote and Fuerteventura.   This would, in theory, cut down significantly on spending for the struggling country, providing a desperately needed financial boost. But are the grave ecological repercussions worth the investment?  There is much debate around the world about this controversial subject; but on the island of Lanzarote, it is clear that this will not be a welcome move.

Clear opposition to drilling

Saturday, protesters from around the island gathered in the capital city of Arrecife to demonstrate their opposition to the exploration for underwater oil.  With their faces painted black and picket signs in hand, an estimated 22,000 people (almost one fifth of the island’s population) walked from one side of the city to the other, chanting passionately and marching to the beat of drums that lead the pack.  Late into the night, locals of all ages and occupations joined together to express their dire concerns. 

Huge number of locals hit the street in protest

Besides the massive eyesore that the site of the drilling will introduce off the east coast, the ripple effects to islanders will have a devastating impact.  The most obvious industry that will take a serious hit will be tourism, which the island depends on heavily.  Most of the large touristic destinations are on the eastern shore due to the year-round excellent weather and plethora of picturesque beaches.  But with the introduction of REPSOL’s towers a mere 23 kilometers (14 miles) from the island’s most populated beaches, the natural purity and ambient tranquility that draws so many European travelers will be a thing of the past. 

Popular tourist beach that will be affected

Beyond the defaced natural setting, the sea level and temperature will inevitably change dramatically, and with the coastal waters being densely populated with sea life, this will have a devastating impact for the underwater creatures and the lucrative fishing industry.  This change does not take into account the shattering results of a potential catastrophe similar to the 2010 BP oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico.  The necessary depth of drilling in this prospective site would match that of the Deepwater Horizon spill (1,500 meters), to which there is still no rapid intervention technology in place. While the possibility of this level of destruction is not a high likelihood, if the waters were to be poisoned, the water supply to the entire island would be almost eliminated.  Lanzarote’s dry climate and absence of ground water makes the ocean the primary source of potable water.  The island’s large desalination plant is located in the capital city of Arrecife, on the east coast, and in extreme proximity to the point of drilling. 

Rich fishing industry is in danger

These factors have sparked the attention of more than the locals in the potentially affected areas.  Rallies have already been held all over the peninsula, pickets raised in cities like Barcalona and Madrid.  Along with Spaniards, many international environmental groups, including Oceana, vehemently oppose Spain’s decision to risk ravishing the delicate marine ecosystem.

But this issue is a sensitive one, and with more people feeling the painful effects of the economic crisis, ineffective methods to cutting costs and feeble attempts at reducing oil consumption are simply not working.  All around the globe, as oil prices climb, the need for alternative forms of energy are absolutely essential.  Will these more radical solutions in conjunction with the feverous attempts by the green minded population be enough to leave these precious waters untapped?  Only time will tell.

Las Palmas Culinary Treats

Check out my next Scoop:  Top Restaurant picks in Las Palmas of Gran Canaria

Canarian Culinary Treats- The Spain Scoop

A Thick African Haze Covers the Islands

La calima is in full force today as the desert sand has created a dense, dusty fog throughout the entire island.  Locals are behaving as they would if storms loomed in the atmosphere all day back home, drizzle dampering people's disposition.  Here the same is true, but with most days being sun filled and mild, the murky tone is unwelcome.  Even our harmonious yoga teacher lacked her usual xenfulness this evening.

Striking satellite image of Sahara sand blowing over Lanzarote

The strange phenomenon called calima, or haze in Enlgish, is a natural weather pattern experienced on the island when the eastern wind blows over the Sahara desert and lifts sand and dust up from the arid land, carrying it a short distance across the sea and engulfing Lanzarote and the surrounding northern Canaries.  Today felt grey and dull from my window, reminding me of a cloudy morning in the States, soon to be followed by a powerful thunderstorm.  But as I stepped outside I was hit by the yellow haze that hung heavy on the horizon, a bizarre image of grainy dust floating in the sky.  Today the wind was more gentle than usual, creating an illusion that I could almost reach out and grab a handful of sky.

This is my second encounter of a day filled with sandy air, as they tend to occur about once a month. Weeks ago, I did not have the privilege to be surrounded by walls as I did today.  Unprepared, I found myself trekking though lava fields, the powerful gusts of wind pushing me back throughout the journey, blasting pieces of powdery land into my unprotected face.  At the conclusion of the day, a single drop of water trickling down my leg changed the tint of my dusty skin to it's normally bronze shade.  My lungs felt as if they were lined with grit, my hair coated with granular fragments.

An attempted photo during calima storm

Beyond a parched throat and layer of filth covering the landscape and all outdoor items, the calima is also responsible for passing on a myriad of pesky illnesses that seem to sneak in and knock the victim off their feet.  Insects and new bacteria and viruses accompany the sand's journey to the island's coast.  The up side to a day like to today is that normally after the eastern winds blow, islanders can look forward to a rare, refreshing rain shower to wash away the dirt and disease.  But with rainfall nearing record lows, hopes of any precipitation are low, and while the tourists can gear up for more sun filled beach days, farmers and locals alike are feeling the adverse effects like never before.

Two Islands, Two Scoops

A little something for everyone!  Check out my Scoop on crazy Carnival in Gran Canaria or inspiration derived from Lanzarote at thespainscoop.com

Carnival Canary Island Style

Lauren's Leap- Finding Inspiration on Lanzarote Island

Discovering Lanzarote: Sneak Peak Article

Here's a little glimpse of why I'm in love with this island, soon to come on The Spain Scoop. 

Island Life- Finding Inspiration on Lanzarote

Enjoying the view of La Graciosa

The island of Lanzarote, part of the Canary Island chain off the coast of Africa, is a hidden gem of the Atlantic, a place of great wonder, beauty, and inspiration, from the volcanic landscape to the eccentric outsiders that flock to its energy.  Many, like me, are initially drawn in by the lure of a tiny island with good weather, pretty beaches, and outdoor excursions.  But shortly after arriving it is clear that this is not your typical tropical vacation. 

The landscape is one of a different planet, with the Mars-like skyline consisting of craters, erupted volcanoes, and hills of hardened lava.   The sides of the ridges are coated with layers of cooled magma, creating a glow of reds, oranges, and browns streaking down the sides and taking on different appearances, depending on the sun’s influence.  The massive peaks that once acted as lids to the volcanoes have exploded, leaving hollowed craters of crumbled rock with caves and deep scars engraved throughout the surface.  The ground below is covered with lava flow that goes on for miles, small villages carved out among it, with single plots leveled out to farm the fertile land.

The volcanic flow in the National Park

The beaches that surround the island are another thing of amazement.  Even the eastern, more populated portion of the island that is littered with tourists and accommodating shops, bars, and hotels, has the same breath-taking shorelines as the less touched, more local western side of the island.  In the south, attracting locals and experienced vacationers are five hidden white sand beaches of Papagayo, only accessible through bumpy dirt roads.  In the northern town of Orzola you can find lagoons of shallow clear water, placid and expansive, for a different type of relaxing day at the beach.  Fishing villages like Punta Mujeres or La Santa quietly boast the islands beauty with their black rock shorelines greeting rolling aqua blue water.

Punta Mujeres 

Rapidly becoming my favorite place to be on the island is the small village of Famara on the western shore.  This surfer’s paradise is often the inspiration for great artistic conceptions due to the towering cliffs that frame the shoreline and the neighboring island of La Graciosa that is in clear view.  Among these inspired individuals is the island’s most influential artist, Cesar Manrique, responsible for the uniform white stucco homes with signature green, blue, or brown doors and window frames among other unique artistic charms that add to Lanzarote’s aesthetic appeal.  The imprint of his influence can be felt throughout the island as his value to harmonize nature’s beauty into his artwork strongly contributes to the preservation of the landscape today.

The awe inspiring cliffs of Famara

While it is true that there are foreign neighborhoods spawning off of the many German and English that flock here for the sun, and the herds of tourists that arrive merely to lie on the beach and play in their resorts, the island also has a growing population of people from around the world that stay here to embrace the undeniable energy that this island radiates.  From painters and musicians to doctors and healers, there seems to be an underlying appreciation for the tranquil vibes that are likewise so alive with vigor.  Simply being here seems to have its own healing power, alleviating day to day stresses and clearing a path for creative thinking and inner contentment. 

My artistic interpretation of la playa

It’s still difficult for me to place what exactly it is about sitting on a piece of volcanic land floating out in the Atlantic that feeds the soul like no other place I have visited has, but there is no doubt that the sensation is universally felt.  Whether I am experiencing this Canary Island among the singing, happy locals at a village cafe, alone in the countryside watching the midday sun shining down on the rolling hills, or curled up on the beach on a crisp evening, gazing up at the dome of brilliant twinkling stars while sharing inspired revelations with another ex-patriot, it is clear to me that I have discovered a magical gem that is Lanzarote.

Happy, singing locals